ERIDGE ROCKS

Eridge Rocks is situated in a beautiful woodland setting, a nature reserve owned by The Sussex Wildlife Trust and is a Site of Special Scientific Interest. Climbing was banned for many years but thankfully climbing is now permitted again. As part of the access agreement between the BMC and The Sussex Wildlife Trust, certain climbs in the amphitheater and Demon Wall area have been banned to preserve the rare plants that inhabit the area (please do not remove any plants, no matter how unimportant they may look), please respect this restriction and check your guidebook for restricted areas. Please refer below to 'access issues' for more information.

Reaching the top of the crag to set up ropes is sometimes difficult and there are no bolts at Eridge. Bring long slings or an extra static rope with you so you can set-up correctly at the top of climbs. 

A large proportion of the crag faces east, so only sees the sun in the morning and there is a large coverage of trees, making it a slow drying crag after wet weather. Due to the site being SSSI, please use minimum chalk or use eco balls which do not leave as much trace. Also do not brush the rock with abrasive boulderbrushes/toothbrushes which wear away the soft outer layer of rock, making it even sandier and resulting in making it more difficult to climb. There is a car park at Eridge Rocks with limited parking, if the carpark is full please do not park along Warren Farm Lane, as this obstructs farm machinery and the fire brigade. 


  New Routes - Submit new route information here 
  (UKC Logbook)



  Car Park - Open - Do not park on Warren Farm Lane if the carpark is full. Doing so will obstruct farming machinery, residence access and the Emergency services and jeopardise future climbing access agreements. If the car park is full there is  the possibility of parking at the A26 lay-by with a short walk in. 


Access Issues: 
Some areas are restricted. 
Climbs in the Amphitheater and Demon Wall area have been banned to preserve the rare plants that inhabit the area. Please check your guidebook for 
               detailed restricted areas. 

  • Further to a site meeting with the Reserves Manager of Sussex Wildlife Trust, the BMC have agreed to ask climbers not to climb or boulder on Yew Crack Buttress (SSC Rockfax Guide Page 130 - 131) due to the increase in erosion. This covers climbs/boulder problems 'Yew Crack/The Leaf to 'Earthrise Surprise'.   Earthrise is not covered by this restriction but if the damage increases then there will, unfortunately, be no option but to add this to the restrictions as well.


  • Nesting Birds - Birds are nesting in the crack of Romulus at the Roman Nose area. (May/June 2020)


 Guidebook - Guides Page


Sussex Wildlife Trust telephone number: 01273 492630

Due to the rock having only a thin outer layer, the rock is very fragile and can only be soloed or top-roped.  Lead climbing is prohibited and placing trad gear would easily rip out and damage the rock. No brushing with toothbrushes or boulder brushes are allowed. There is a CODE OF PRACTICE for climbers that should be read before climbing and setting up top-ropes.