2020 South East Round Up

The annual 'South East Round Up' from Tom Gore is now live on UKC.  Click here for the article.

Winter Season

Lockdown 2 came to an end on 2nd of December 2020. Firstly, we would like to thank all those who respected the climbing suspension on southern sandstone and helped contribute to protecting this finite resource. It has been hard for us all not being able to climb, but looking at the bigger picture we can see why we have had to make the sacrifices we have over the past few weeks. Thank you! 

The climbing suspension status has now (cautiously) changed as the rocks are for the most part still out of condition and climbable rock is scarce. As indoor walls reopen, it is hoped that this will help alleviate the unprecedented demand for outdoor climbing for this time of the year. The BMC have put out the following statement about climbing on Southern Sandstone through the winter months.

"We are temporarily changing the advice in the code of practice regarding climbing in wet or damp conditions for this winter." 

• Only climb on properly dry rock – this will usually take multiple days of dry weather in a row before a visit, and even then nothing is guaranteed.
• If you are unsure, leave climbing for another day. It might be frustrating to travel only to find the crag isn’t in condition, but we all need to have the long term sustainability of the crags in mind. Once holds are snapped or damaged, they cannot be replaced.
• Always follow the guidance in the Sandstone Code of Practice to ensure you have an enjoyable climb and do your bit to protect these amazing but fragile sandstone crags."

We are now also naming this period the Winter Season. Check the COVID-19 page and BMC RAD for any access updates.

Southern Sandstone Climbing Suspension - 10/11/2020

All climbers are now being asked to stop climbing on Southern Sandstone in the south-east of England. The BMC statement is as follows.

"We are appealing to all climbers to stop climbing on Southern Sandstone crags for now, to prevent damage to the crags whilst the rock is damp in the coming months. Significant and irreversible damage has already occurred since Lockdown 2 began due high numbers climbing on damp rock. Damp sandstone is weak sandstone and climbing on it greatly increases the likelihood of permanently damaging the route or problem being climbed. Snapped holds change the climbing forever: they cannot be replaced. Whilst pubic access isn’t changing and walking around the Southern Sandstone outcrops is fine, we are asking all climbers to help us conserve this amazing resource for the future - don’t climb for the time being".

We ask the climbing community to help spread the message and to give support at this time to help preserve the rocks and beloved climbs from being destroyed. This is until indoor walls reopen and the sandstone conditions improve. 

The full BMC article with the reasons why this decision has been made can be found here.

Crag Status Update - Lockdown 2 - 08.11.2020

Due to the current poor conditions it is strongly advised that people avoid climbing on Southern Sandstone outcrops throughout Lockdown 2 to avoid further Damage.

Currently there are only a very small number of climbs which are in condition. These climbs require care in order to ascend them. All other climbs are now damp/wet  and  are unsuitable for climbing at this time.  The extremely fragile southern sandstone crags in particular are even more at risk of damage if wet or damp. Understandably Southern Sandstone  has been the focal point of many south-east and London climbers this year, and increased numbers combined with damp rock has the potential to cause significant damage.

HARRISON'S ROCKS

Crag/Rocks - Restricted: Very Limited Number of Climbs in Condition

Campsite - Closed

Toilet Facilities - Open 8am - 5pm

Carpark - Open 8am - 5pm

STONE FARM ROCKS

Crag/Rocks - Restricted: Very Limited Number of Climbs in Condition

BOWLES ROCKS
Crag/Rocks - Closed from the 5th November 2020 (Lockdown 2)

HIGH ROCKS

Crag/Rocks - Closed from the 5th November 2020 (Lockdown 2)

HIGH ROCKS ANNEXE

Crag/Rock - Closed from the 5th November 2020 (Lockdown 2)

BASSETT'S FARM

Crag/Rocks -  No climbing until further notice.

ERIDGE ROCKS
Crag/Rocks - No climbing until further notice.

Lockdown 2 - What You Need to Know - 05.11.2020

England goes into its second lockdown on Thursday 5th of November 2020. As climbing walls close again, outdoor crags come back into focus for many. The BMC has launched its latest statement about how the current restrictions will affect climbing. 

A large number of locations are now closed for Lockdown 2. 

Please see below and follow. Failure to comply could result in permanent loss of access moving forward.

Below are some sandstone related items to consider if you're planning to head out onto the sandstone over the autumn and winter period.

1.  Avoid Wet and Damp Conditions

BMC - "The extremely fragile southern sandstone crags, in particular, are even more at risk of damage if wet or damp. Understandably this area has been the focal point for a surge of south-east and London climbers this year, and increased numbers combined with damp rock has the potential to cause significant damage. Don’t be tempted to climb on fragile rock types if wet or damp, it is all too easy to accelerate rock erosion and snap small holds. If in doubt, leave it for a day when the rock is dry".

2. Check Access

Check the climbing area pages and the COVID-19 page for the latest access information. Additionally check the BMC RAD, though this may incur some delays as access changes. Note any access agreements and avoid locations which require verbal permission at this time.

3. Remember to Wipe Your Feet and Follow the Code of Practice

If conditions are favourable for outdoor sandstone climbing, remember to wipe your feet so they are 100% clean before touching the rock. Winter ground conditions cause unfavourable elements to stick to your feet. Do not put dirty feet on the rock. Ensure you are efficient with all top-rope setups. The code of practice can be found here.

4. Parking and Overnight Stays

Observe car parking opening and closing times to avoid any issues. No overnight stays away from your home, this includes campervans, tents and cars. See government guidelines.  

5. Keep Up To Date

Check the COVID-19 page for any changes to crag access or parking access.

5. Trying times

These are difficult times for all so help your fellow climber by sticking to the rules and be courteous to those who are taking whatever action is required at this time to protect themselves, and others. 

Climbing suspensions in place on some Southern Sandstone Outcrops (Lockdown 2).

HARRISON'S ROCKS

Crag/Rocks - Restricted: Very Limited Number of Climbs in Condition
Campsite - Closed
Toilet Facilities - Open 8am - 5pm
Carpark - Open 8am - 5pm

STONE FARM ROCKS

Crag/Rocks - Restricted: Very Limited Number of Climbs in Condition

BOWLES ROCKS
Crag/Rocks - Closed from the 5th November 2020 (Lockdown 2)

HIGH ROCKS

Crag/Rocks - Closed from the 5th November 2020 (Lockdown 2)

HIGH ROCKS ANNEXE

Crag/Rock - Closed from the 5th November 2020 (Lockdown 2)

BASSETT'S FARM

Crag/Rocks -  No climbing until further notice.

ERIDGE ROCKS
Crag/Rocks - No climbing until further notice.

Harrison's Campsite Closure and Winter Carpark Times

Harrison's Campsite

Kate Harris at Forestry England gave the following statement regarding the campsite
closure in 2020.

"Unfortunately the campsite at Birchden will remain closed for 2020 but we hope to welcome you back in 2021.

The decision to keep the campsite closed has been a difficult one, and we understand how disappointing this news has been. It is important to us that when you stay at Birchden, you can do so safely and enjoyably and this is something we feel we would be unable to deliver this year.

Please note that camping is not permitted within the wider woodland due to the negative impact it poses for wildlife".

Please visit the website for current information. https://www.forestryengland.uk/birchden-wood

It's safe to say that climbers are extremely grateful for the way that Forestry England has managed the campsite, carpark and toilet facilities since they took over management back in 2015. The closure of the campsite is completely understandable and necessary and we ask that no further requests be made to Forestry England concerning it's reopening this year or early next year due to the pandemic we are in. Please help support Forestry England when climbing and ensure you abide by all opening times, do not stay overnight and ensure to pay for the parking.   

Harrison's Carpark

As the clocks are changing at the end of the month, the carpark gates will be locked. From the 25th October 2020, the car park will be locked at 5pm.

Kate Harris - Forestry England - "I appreciate that this may cause an issue for some who like to climb the rocks at night but it is also when we are likely to start experiencing anti-social behaviour.”

The Second Generation - Rare Ascent

Ben Read has made a rare ascent of The Second Generation at High Rocks on the 20th September 2020. Graded at French 8a UK 6c, the climb has always been regarded as a significant test piece which has inspired many climbers but managed to evade ascents.

Originally an aid climb put up by Terry Tullis in the 1970's, it was then freed by sandstone prodigy Jasper Sharp in 1990. It was Dave Turner who repeated the line, and shortly after Ben Moon took the third ascent. Holds became worn on the climb and at some point some crucial holds unfortunately broke. It is believed that there has only been one ascent  approximately 10 years ago in its modified state. Ben's ascent is significant as a repeat of which he proposes the grade of a potential 8a+. It is also believed to be potentially harder than its neighbouring climb, Chimaera which is also 8a+ though this is yet to be confirmed.

Ben Noted: "It now involves a very hard sequence, holding a very small mono to get to another mono instead of the old figure of four move."

The break down is probably: UK 6b to the first set of good holds, then 2 UK 6c moves in a row, then a technical section of UK 6b to the top, giving an overall grade of French 8a / 8a+

Additional news also comes in the the form of an onsight of Kraite Arête by Ben Preston. This was his first trip to High Rocks and it is believed that Kraite Arete has only seen one onsight in its history by Tim Emmet.

Please remember that if visiting High Rocks, specific access agreement are in place.

Scoliosis - Significant New Hard Climb at High Rocks Annexe

Rhys Whitehouse has made a new and significant ascent of Scoliosis at High Rocks Annexe on the 11th September 2020. The route curves up the blank face to the left of the route Purgatory and has for many years been eyed up as a next generation sandstone climb. It took Rhys two years to finally make the ascent which is described as being impossible for the short, requiring balance and a hard pull to a sloper. Respectfully done on a top rope, and given the sandstone french grade of 8a+ (UK 7a), this has given High Rocks Annexe its hardest independent route to date. There are only a handful of climbs of this grade currently. One climb could be potentially harder, which is Peter Wycislik's 'Alone' at Eridge, though the rumoured grade of French 8b is yet to be confirmed.  

Rhys has expressed a desire to return to climb the route above mats to gain the high ball tick which he expects is in the region of font 7C+/8A.

Remember if you head to High Rocks Annexe, ensure you obtain permission as noted on the BMC RAD and all guidebooks. Failure to do so will jeopardise future access.  

Bowles Rocks - All Day Weekend Climbing 19.09.2020

It’s nice to see things getting back to some sort of normality. Slowly but surely. Bowles Rocks: From the 19th September 2020 daytime weekend climbing is permitted. They will also be selling season tickets onsite from this week. This is alongside the rocks being open 5pm to dusk every weeknight.

New Routes and Boulder Problems - Guidelines

If you think you have done a new route or problem and are looking at submitting new route information to UKC, then make sure you have checked out the current guidelines. These guidelines have been produced to help climbers understand the parameters of standard route recording and avoid any disappointment if their climb or problem is regrettably rejected. They are also available here.

Standard Definition of a New Route or Problem

The definition and parameters of a new route submission in the traditional sense is as follows:

1. A climb done on a section of rock where no climb has been done before.
2. A new significant independent start and/or finish to an existing climb.
3. A significant traverse. 

Significant is defined by a distance of approximately 1 meter away from an existing route or problem.

A submission of all the above types of first ascents would require the following information: 

Climb Name, Grade, First Ascent Details

Bouldering - Sometimes boulder problems have sit starts and alternative finishes added to them. In this case those additions would normally only incur a sub-note of information in a route description of which the grade and first ascent details would only be needed, as these variations are often part of the original problem. 

Eliminates and Variations

Climbs that eliminate holds do so by eliminating holds on climbs either side of them. These kinds of climbs are often narrow and restrictive in nature and do not allow for much/any deviation. New climbs in this style can be submitted in their full stature, though they are often seen as lesser climbs compared to original more independent climbs either side of them. 

Effects on original climbs - It is often the case that the original independent climbs become artificially restricted with the addition of eliminates being established next to them. In theory, eliminates generally are hard to establish without some form of incursion on an already established climb. Original climbs generally have much wider parameters to climb in with alternative holds are up for grabs, which can be used to climb a route in an alternative way. Some climbs which are established as being independent and often sandwiched between two other climbs do on some occasions utilise a hold from another climb or wander mildly into another climbs space. This is often deemed acceptable as long as this is kept to an absolute minimum, otherwise, the climb would become a variation of the climb it encroaches on.

Eliminates should in all instances be ignored when climbing an original climb.

The term variation is often applied to eliminate lines to allow for some misgivings, but it is expected that an eliminate climb is as independent as possible. 

Bridging - Where a climb is presented with a potential back wall to bridge against, the first recorded ascent style of that climb takes president with any subsequent elimination or addition of that back wall taking a secondary position within the description of the same climb. 

The elimination of holds or specific holds on climbs do not depict a new climb or problem of any kind unless it depicts the elimination of a main aid, such as an arete. 

Aretes - Climbs up the left side or right side of an arete would normally stand as independent climbs, as long as they do not violate a climb which purely climbs the arete in its own right using the left and right side when required. As such any addition to that original climb would become a sub climb of the original. 

Boulder Problems – Hold Specific

Hold specific problems will not be recorded due to the potential impact problems of this nature has on the rock and additional difficulty with documentation. This is where only specific holds are used for hands and feet as used on already existing problems.    

Boulder Problems – Existing Routes

Problems which are part of an existing full-length climb will only be noted if there is a sit start presented. A start and endpoint must be noted. Again, this would only be noted as a sub-note of the original climb.

Boulder Problems - Micro Variations

Micro variations will only be recorded as a variation of an existing problem as a sub-note. This is where an alternative (new) hold is used or removed to start an already existing problem and only changes the problem in a minor way. This would only require (Grade and First Ascent Details) It would only be noted as a sub-note of the original problem, though some originators may want to consider which micro variation becomes the dominant problem and weather a micro variation is valid or in fact needed. 

Boulder Problems - Links and Extensions

Links and extensions in this context fall more within the parameters of a traverse or boulder problem with regards to Southern Sandstone. A new traverse is defined traditionally as using a pre-defined line or area of holds permitted in order to traverse across a wall from a specific start and endpoint.

Those who add onto or into (or both) an existing traverse or problems should take into consideration the original traverse name and parameters. In general, new ground defines a new climb, but linking problems together is often done in various fashions and sometimes warrants an individual route description depending on the nature and length of the ascent, but often would just become a sub-note with a name associated with it. A sub-note would also occur if there is only a minor deviation of the existing traverse of the problem. 

High Rocks - Access Update - 12.08.2020

A new access agreement has been made which now reinstates top-rope climbing at High Rocks as of the 12th of August 2020. The agreement has been drawn up by Graham Adcock and Tim Daniells along with the owner. To ensure future access, climbers must be adhered to the rules. 

Bellow are the main points of which the full access document can be found here:

Climbing at High Rocks. 12th August 2020 - Rocks Open

Following agreement with the Owner, we are pleased to announce that limited climbing is now permitted at High Rocks. In order to ensure access is maintained, it is essential that the following restrictions and procedures are followed carefully. If conditions are abused, climbing will, once again, be suspended.

• Climbing will be available on weekdays when High Rocks is open. Some weekends are possible, especially Sundays. Availability will be made clear at pre-booking.

• Climbers must pre-book at least one day before you wish to climb.

• There will be no access for climbers turning up on the day without pre-booking.

• Book by telephone 01892 515532 or by email info@highrocks.co.uk.

• Climbing is £12 per person for the day. Payment will be taken when booking along with name and contact details.

• Opening time is 10:15 and closing will be about an hour before the light fails.

• Season tickets are not available.

• Access is for roped climbing only – bouldering and abseiling are not permitted.

• Climbers are to make themselves known to staff on arrival by using the intercom system at the gate and enter the rocks as directed. Access is only to be made through this gate.

• When climbing, please respect High Rocks’ staff requests to have your name checked against the day’s list or move to a different climb if requested.

Please note the following:

• No Bouldering/Bouldering mats.

• No abseiling.

• No Group climbing.

• All climbers must be age 18 or over. No children.

Check for updates on our main High Rocks page.

Fire at Harrison's Rocks - 12.08.2020

In this heat it is important to recognise that any form of fire at the rocks or in the woodland is very dangerous and strictly prohibited. This also includes BBQs. 

On the 12th August we had another reminder about how dangerous fires are with yet another fire above the rocks. The last one being on the 17th May 2014.

Three fire engines were in attendance and it took approximately one and a half hours to extinguish.

It's worth noting that if a fire did take hold at the top of the rock and spread, it would result in the closure of the rocks for an indefinite period of time.

Further signs will be put out shortly.

If you see any one with any form of BBQ or an open fire then ask them to extinguish it immediately! 

The below are courtesy of Sam Taylor (c).

Southern Sandstone Open Meeting - Tuesday, 1st September (19:00 -20:30)

The next southern sandstone open meeting will be held via Zoom on Tuesday 1st September between (19:00-20:30). The BMC is helping organise this meeting so you can join in the discussions about general sandstone issues, items of interest and proposed developments or changes. 

Registration is via Eventbrite please click here.

Zoom access details will be at the bottom of the automated email received from Eventbrite.

You can also register your interest on facebook here:

Temporary Suspension of Climbing at Eridge

As of today (16 July 2020) an important decision backed by active members of the climbing community and the BMC has been made to help with the future of access and conservation at Eridge. 

There is now a temporary suspension of all forms of climbing at Eridge.

The BMC statement is as follows.  

"Unprecedented numbers have been climbing at Eridge during the Covid-19 crisis, resulting in considerable and accelerated wear to the fragile rock on many parts of the crag. As a result, the difficult decision has been taken to temporarily restrict climbing access to the whole crag to allow time for the rock to stabilise.

 

We hope to be able to speed up this process with hold repair methods used on other sandstone crags, but given the rare botany and SSSI status of the site, this needs approval by the landowner, Sussex Wildlife Trust (SWT), and Natural England. Please bear with us while discussions are ongoing, and help demonstrate to SWT that climbers are responsible users by climbing elsewhere for the time being – continued future access to this crag depends on our individual actions and responsible behaviour now.

 

The restriction will be constantly reviewed and we hope to lift it as soon as the damaged holds can be stabilised." 

Any updates to the restriction will be posted on the BMC’s Regional Access Database and on Southern Sandstone Climbs as soon as the situation changes."

British Mountaineering Council

COVID-19 has taught all of us what life can be like without climbing. Imagine what it could be like if climbing was banned all the time. The BMC are there to make sure you can climb your projects and fulfil your dreams to be in the great outdoors!

The southeast of England boasts 12 unique outcrops of climbable rock of which all but two are privately owned or managed and all have varying degrees of access arrangements.

The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) help maintain access with the help of volunteers and access reps. The two major crags in the southeast are Harrison’s Rocks and Stone Farm, which are both owned by the BMC and maintained by a team of volunteers. Without the BMC, these rocks could well have become private, which would have severely restricted access to climbing in the southeast. The BMC pay for the maintenance of the rocks which includes the provision of bolts, woodland management, path maintenance, fencing, gates and a host of other things. It also funds all specialist rock repair work with the use of resin and cement work.

So when you're down at Harrison’s or Stone Farm next. Think, am I a BMC member? If not then perhaps you should be?

Membership of the BMC (British Mountaineering Council) is an essential way of helping fund the BMC with the work they do and continue access and conservation work for all crags. 

You can get involved with an area meeting like the BMC London and South East meetings or volunteer for BMC work days if you so wish to give back.The BMC also support the Sandstone Open Meetings held in the autumn months. Meetings are there to help inform climbers and help them engage in the decision making processes.  

Being a BMC member also gives you loads of discounts to a number of outdoor stores as well as some indoor climbing walls. You get access to specialist holiday insurance which will cover specifics like sport climbing, trad climbing, bouldering, deep water soloing etc. 

And remember that the BMC have always been involved with indoor climbing and also run the GB Climbing Team.

JOIN THE BMC - HERE

EMAIL: - LONDON AREA: Email

SUPPORT THE CLIMBING COMMUNITY!