Thursday, 5 May 2022
Eridge Rocks Update - May 2022
Tuesday, 19 April 2022
Harrison's Rocks Bolting Upgrade Work 2022 - Stage 3

Monday, 28 March 2022
Harrison's Rocks Bolting Upgrade Work 2022 - Stage 2
- Big Cave Route 1 - Both Bolts
- Birch Tree Crack - Both Bolts
- Senarra - Both Bolts
- Baskerville - Back Bolt
- Elementary - Back Bolt
Thursday, 24 March 2022
Harrison's Rocks BMC Workdays 12th & 13th March 2022 - Thank You!
A big thank you to those who came out to give their time and put back into the rocks and the Harrison's Environment.
Lots of incredible work was done, so thank you!
Harrison's Rocks Bolting Upgrade Work 2022 - Stage 1
- Dark Chimney - Both Bolts
- Casement Wall - Back Bolt
- Sagittarius - Back Bolt
- Stupid Effort - Back Bolt
- What Crisis - Back Bolt
- Slimfinger Crack - Back Bolt
- Horizontal Birch - Back Bolt
- Sossblitz - Back Bolt
Monday, 28 February 2022
Harrison's Work Day Saturday 12th and Sunday 13th March 2022 - Volunteers Needed
There will be a nominated event coordinator on each day – Adrian Paisey on Sat the 12th and TBA on Sunday 13th March 2022. Please report to them in the car park prior to the event briefing and also ensure that if you arrive later, you report to them before starting any work.
The plan is to meet in the car park at Harrison’s at 09:30 on each day where there will be a full briefing, explaining what work is to be done, where the work is and giving a full safety briefing. The last part is important and particularly so for those who may join later. If that applies to you, please find the person in charge before starting any work.
The work will consist of clearing the arisings from the tree cutting, moving the trunks to habitat piles or where they are required for revetment work and lining footpaths with the brash.
There may also be other work cutting back Sycamore, Birch and other saplings that have re-grown in areas cut in previous years and any new or replacement revetment work that is required.
Consequently, there is plenty to be done and a good turnout would be very much appreciated.
Parking is £4 a day at Harrison’s and it would help if you could share transport. The BMC will cover reasonable parking costs – please retain your ticket and let the person in charge on the day have them after the day’s work so that we can recover the costs.
If you have a bowsaw, loppers, pruners etc. please bring them along but there is plenty of work to be done that doesn’t require tools.
Old clothes and boots, gardening gloves and waterproofs if it’s wet. Please don’t wear your best ‘Arcteryx’ gear! Bring a packed lunch and a drink, please!
We will have a first aider on site both days but if you have first aid qualifications, please let the day’s event coordinator know.
Friday, 18 February 2022
Please Avoid all Sandstone Crags Today due to Storm Eunice (Update)
Wednesday, 12 January 2022
Southern Sandstone Round-Up 2021
Tom Gore's latest instalment of his 2021 Southern Sandstone Round-up has hit the digital press.
For the full story on UKC click here.
Sunday, 10 October 2021
Sandstone Open Meeting - Monday 18th October 2021 (18:30) - Via Zoom
The next open meeting will be on the Monday the 18th of October 2021 (18:30) - Via Zoom. This will be an opportunity to listen to updates, ask questions and contribute to access, conservation and climbing related items for southern sandstone in general. To sign up, simply click on the link below.
https://us06web.zoom.us/meeting/register/tZMpduyqpj4tHdYy8h4Iz4HqjifsZ5MBjMb5
Overview Report
In 2022 we hope to be having the Sandstone Festival organised by Chris Stone, chair of the BMC London and South East Area Meeting, that was planned for 2020 but had to be postponed, which will include an open meeting. Any thoughts on whether or not we should have a meeting in May and if so what form it should take will be welcome during the general discussion.
The historic system used for years was shown to be inadequate following a review and testing. It was discovered that we could not guarantee all the swaged links were as good as we wanted them to be. Added to that was the recommendation that both bolts be equalised to enhance the system currently in place. As such there was no choice but to remove the swaging used to connect the bolt pairs of bolts at Harrison’s, Stone Farm and Bull’s Hollow to improve safety for all users Please see the BMC article here: Changes to Southern Sandstone bolted anchors (thebmc.co.uk) .
Further to the May Open Meeting most restrictions have now been lifted but some issues remain to be fully resolved. However, parking problems at some of the outcrops have continued and all such advice should continue to be observed. The BMC’s Regional Access Database (the RAD) and the Southern Sandstone Climbs website will be updated regularly and it is important that all climbers are aware of and following the advice.
At the 11/5/21 meeting the change to the ‘climbing on wet rock’ clause in the COP proposed by HRMG was rejected and instead the meeting agreed that a working group be set up to consider the matter. The working group, consisting of Graham Adcock, Adrian Paisey, Mark Brewster, James Bouchard, Gerry Gilmartin and Paul Norris have considered other options and, for the moment, recommends that the text reverts to the existing (2017) clause, pending a full review of the COP. If this meeting is in agreement with this approach, the review will begin forthwith. There has also been some concern expressed that the BMC does not currently have funds allocated for this but, subject to agreement, costs could be covered locally through the Steve Durkin Sandstone Trust.
Tree Felling of the next phase of the Woodland Management Plan, below The Niblick will take place over the winter and a work weekend will follow and notified to all in advance. HRMG will be considering a number of other site jobs that need to be done at its next meeting, including in the St Gothard’s area, some of these jobs may or may not be left until the work weekend following the tree felling.
Stone Farm
Daimon and Emma have installed 5 pairs of bolts in the area where the tree stumps were taken down above the Stone Farm Crack area, and also a new pair of bolts above Moss Wall- Left Block at the far end of the Rocks. A repair that needs to be to made to the revetments below the yew tree is to be done in the Autumn by a small working party, possibly involving the EGCC.
Bowles opened back to normal in August. Loz Reading reports, “We are aware than many key areas are losing ground height due to erosion, not helped by the fact the site is on a hill. We have just bought materials for stopping and repairing ground erosion under some key areas, the work will be carried out this winter. Loz will at the meeting to expand on this and answer any questions.
Further to a meeting with the Reserves Manager for the Rocks in May and a Sussex Wildlife Trust Ecologist colleague at Harrison’s on 4th May for Graham to demonstrate what was involved in the application of resin and show them it had been applied. The we have now heard from the Reserves Manager that the SWT have decided that they is are not against our treatment on the rocks, as long as it is in a very targeted and controlled way. The SWT are now consulting with Natural England (as the site is an SSSI) to ensure they agree with SWT’s assessment and to get all the relevant consents. The SWT want to review their agreement with the BMC and to assess all the climbing walls in relation to our biological survey data to ensure it is still a good fit for their reserve and is not causing any damage to sensitive flora. This might result in expanding the no climb zones. A review of the climbing restrictions is seen as inevitable as the agreement has been in place for 20 years and we will also be raising the possibility of removing the restrictions in certain areas. Meanwhile the BMC’s agreed voluntary suspension of climbing at the Rocks will remain in place but we hope that the overall suspension on climbing can be lifted next Spring.
Some Rhododendron work is needed.
TWCC. They have asked for a small clearance of bramble etc. at Happy Valley, on the section immediately left of the Cheesewring.
A meeting of the committee is imminent.
Friday, 24 September 2021
Changes to Southern Sandstone Bolted Anchors
Rob Dyer of the BMC has published the following:
"Following a review of anchors used on Southern Sandstone, the way we use bolted anchors in the area is changing. The current system of a main bolt (which takes all of the load), secured to a backup bolt with a swaged steel cable has been used on Southern Sandstone for 30 years or more. However, updated expert advice has recommended that this changes to both bolts equalised to a central point, in line with standard practice elsewhere.
It is not possible to equalise the bolts with in situ equipment in a way that is both strong and will not cause damage to the rock so climbers will now need to equalise both bolts as part of their top-rope setup. In the short term, all swaged wire backups will be removed from bolted sandstone anchors as soon as possible. Additional bolts will be placed where needed at Harrison’s and Stone Farm Rocks as part of an ongoing BMC program of renewing and updating bolted anchors.
Visitors should arrive with equipment to allow them to equalise the double bolt anchors to a central point – there are many ways of doing this but the most common and easiest is to use either a sling or rigging rope with screw gates on each bolt. Remember to extend the anchor point sufficiently to prevent your climbing rope from wearing the rock. It’s a good idea to use rope protectors over any rigging to prevent damage to slings/ropes and the rock from normal movement whilst belaying.
Top Photo: one example of how to set up and equalised top rope anchor on two bolts with a sling. Note that here the sling is long enough that the central point hangs over the edge, which is essential to prevent wear from the moving climbing rope. In some cases, you will need to extend the central point to ensure it hangs over the edge of the crag, (as in the photo to the right).
The BMC would like to thank and acknowledge DMM for their assistance with testing."
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/changes-to-southern-sandstone-bolted-anchors
UKC form post here.
Monday, 9 August 2021
Bowles Rocks - Opening Times Return to Normal (August 2021)
As of the 1st of August opening times for independent climbers at Bowles Rocks are 8am to duck. As always check their website for latest information.
We are pleased to be able to open the rocks as normal for August 2021, there are still some restrictions for July. There will be many Bowles groups on site during the weekdays in August, so it is likely the the Easy Gully Area the the Hargreaves Area will be in constant use.
Season tickets are available to purchase onsite for £50
Sunday, 8 August 2021
A Celebration of Southern Sandstone - An Interview With Daimon Beail
Thursday, 17 June 2021
Bowles Opening Times for Independent Climbers - June and July 2021 (COVID)
Thursday, 10 June 2021
State Of The Art - Southern Sandstone
The May-June 2021 edition of Climber magazine features Daimon Beail's article on Southern Sandstone called "The State of the Art - Southern Sandstone" which is an overview of southern sandstone and the current state of the nation.
Visit climber.co.uk to obtain a copy in print or digital form.
Wednesday, 9 June 2021
Bob Moulton Received the George Band Award
Emma Tavers writes in here '2021 BMC Volunteer Award Winners Announced' BMC Article.
"Bob has dedicated a lifetime of voluntary work to the BMC locally as well as in other areas of the UK. He has shown an exemplary and exceptional voluntary contribution to the BMC’s work and as a Chair of the HRMG, Bob was involved with the BMC’s acquisition of Stone Farm Rocks in 2002.
Bob is, and has been for a very long time, at the core of what happens on all sandstone outcrops, and not just the BMC owned ones. At nearly 80 years old, he’s still as sharp as a button on the emails and very rarely misses a meeting. He is also one of regular attendees to our Sandstone Volunteer workdays and has been for many years.
It’s difficult to summarise all his input, but in summary it involves:
- Member of the South West Area Committee for about four years in the late 1960s /early 1970s.
- Chair of the Harrison’s Rocks Management Group (HRMG) from 1997 to 2005.
- Chaired the BMC Future Policy Review Steering Group between 2003 and 2005.
- Has been a member of the BMC Land and Property Trust since its formation in 2005.
- For the Royal Navy & Royal Marines Mountaineering Club, Bob wrote/edited the 1966 and 1978 Devon guidebooks as well as the 1970, 1974 and 1980 Lundy guidebooks and various supplements.
- Bob was Vice President of the Climbers’ Club 1990-3 "
Bob is still an active member of the HRMG and his contributions have been
transformative for the south east sandstone outcrops and people who climb them. Bob's roots run deep within the sandstone community and this award is a great recognition of his work and very much deserved.
Photo: (c) Mike Vetterlein