Harrison's Bolting Work 30.09.2023 to 1.10.2023 - Advance Disruption Notice

Bolting work is continuing this weekend and as a result, some areas will see temporary closures. 

• Long Layback Area - SSC Rockfax - P194
• Archer's Wall - SSC Rockfax - P202
• What Crisis - SSC Rockfax - P204
• Wellington Block - SSC Rockfax - P228
• Squat Tower Area - SSC Rockfax - P232
• The Cave - SSC Rockfax - P252
• Spider Wall - SSC Rockfax - P254
  
• Hell Wall - SSC Rockfax - P265

Any bolts with red tape attached to them should not be used or touched.

Sandstone Open Meeting is scheduled for Sunday 1st October 2023, 4pm, at Harrison's Rocks

The next Sandstone Open Meeting is scheduled for Sunday 1st October at 16:00 and will take place at Harrison’s Rocks by the Isolated Buttress.

The Sandstone Open Meeting is your chance to hear what’s going on and to have your say about anything to do with the local sandstone climbing and or the BMC.

Southern Sandstone Open Meeting - Sunday 30th July 2023 (Postponed)

Postponed.....

(UPDATE... Due to weather this meeting has been postponed, posable new dates will be circulated soon)

The next Sandstone Open Meeting is scheduled for Sunday 30th July and will take place at Harrison’s Rocks by the Isolated Buttress.

Currently, the plan is for this to take place at 16:00. 

The Sandstone Open Meeting is your chance to hear what’s going on and to have your say about anything to do with the local sandstone climbing and or the BMC.

If you have a particular topic or issue you wish to bring up, please drop it in the forum below so that the issue may be scheduled. 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/crag_access/southern_sandstone_open_meeting-761690

Alternatively. Bring it up under AOB.

The meeting will be chaired by Adrian Paisey (HRMG Chair) and Tim Daniells (BMC Land and Property Trust).

Rockfax Digital App Sandstone Update V2.0

The first Rockfax book to southern sandstone was published in 2017 and covers all the best routes and problems on the outcrops of Kent and Sussex.  

Rockfax has just released a big update to Southern Sandstone on Rockfax Digital which includes lots of new routes and significantly more bouldering, to create perhaps the most comprehensive guide to climbable rock for the area. There are many updates and refinements, which also includes the latest access information as of May 2023. 

Climbing Southern Sandstone rock is a delicate art and it is the duty of each climber to check access information using the BMC RAD. Access information has been included in the app via clicking on both information icons but can always change, so never assume.

Some key access items are: 

High Rocks: - 2020 Access update which requires pre booking before entrance and no bouldering.

Eridge Green:- 2022 Access update which has new restrictions as well as new areas opened. Eridge south which is still under review is currently banned but is included in the app. Check access information before attempting any climbs and ensure that you don't use chalk or substitutes.

Click on both information icons to see access information and also check the RAD

Summer Season

Summer Season conditions tend to be applied between:

1st April and the 31st October. 

• On average there are longer hours of daylight and more favourable weather conditions meaning the rock is more likely to be in condition. 

• Some areas which do not see as much daylight can still be prone to damp conditions. 

• Ensure to follow the Code of Practice at all times to help protect southern sandstone for yourself and others to enjoy!

Winter Returns

Winter Season conditions tend to be applied between:

1st November and the 31st March.

Conditions in the winter season tend to mean that much of the rock is out of condition. Damp and often saturated in parts. Dry and climbable rock is often limited and restricted to certain more open areas. As such the following advice should be adhered to. 

• Only climb on properly dry rock – this will usually take multiple days of dry weather in a row before a visit, and even then nothing is guaranteed.

• If you are unsure, leave climbing for another day. It might be frustrating to travel only to find the crag isn’t in condition, but we all need to have the long term sustainability of the crags in mind. Once holds are snapped or damaged, they cannot be replaced.

• Always follow the guidance in the Sandstone Code of Practice to ensure you have an enjoyable climb and do your bit to protect these amazing but fragile sandstone crags."

Eridge Rocks Climbing Access Agreement 2022

Some climbing restrictions at Eridge Rocks have now been lifted with a new climbing access agreement between The Sussex Wildlife Trust and the BMC now in place. Additionally, repairs to damaged rock caused by climbers/boulders in 2020 have now been completed. Eridge Rocks should only be visited by experienced sandstone climbers who can climb in biological sensitive climbing environments and are able to undertake advanced levels of delicate climbing techniques, rock protection methodology and have a full awareness of the climbing restrictions and the Southern Sandstone Code of Practice. Anyone not able to follow the Code of Practice and the special Eridge agreement plan, should not climb a Eridge Rocks.

Permitted and restricted areas shown in current printed guidebooks no longer apply, though there
is a significant Rockfax App update due in the autumn depicting up to date climbing information for the area. To assist further with permitted and restricted climbing areas, new wooden posts (See image below) have been installed to help identify these areas.

Use of chalk or other substitutes is prohibited on all climbs/boulder problems. 

New 2022 Climbing and Bouldering Agreement:

As well as adhering to the Sandstone Code of Practice; especially no brushing with boulder brushes & toothbrushes, remembering to clean your shoes before climbing and as well as the new rule of no chalk or substitutes, please observe the following:

Climbing/bouldering is only currently permitted in the following areas and between and including the following. 

Permitted Area 1 - Close to You to Thin Layback

Permitted Area 2 - Mosquito to More Cake for Me, 

Permitted Area 3 - Yew Crack to Fandango 

Permitted Area 4 - Optical Racer to Portcullis inclusive. 

Climbing/bouldering outside these areas is forbidden. 

Discussions are still taking place as to the area between the car park and the A26 and for the time being this area will remain closed for climbing/bouldering.

Additional

It’s important to note that climbing/bouldering by organised groups is still not permitted. 

Greenery of any kind is not to be removed, which includes any vegetation, ferns, or moss.  Clearance work can only be undertaken by The Sussex Wildlife Trust. Eridge Rocks remains a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and we are fortunate enough to have access to the area to climb.

Future Access Updates

In addition to the discussions taking place regarding access to the areas between the car park
and the A26, the areas where climbing/bouldering is allowed will be reviewed by The Sussex Wildlife Trust in consultation with the British Mountaineering Council every six years. This coincides with the SWT’s bryophyte surveys. The BMC will work with climbers and SWT to ensure guidelines are adhered to and the SWT reserve the right to close climbing on site or on particular climbs if guidelines are not being followed causing damage to the reserve. Under SWT supervision, the BMC are permitted to carry out shellac rock treatment to repair any damage to the rock surface caused by climbing on designated climbing routes. 

This is another delicate time in the history for climbing at Eridge Rocks and it is vital that climbers avoid behaviour that will lead to an all-out ban. Anyone encountering climbers or boulderers not following these new restrictions are encouraged speak to them directly and inform them of the new restrictions. 

It is incredibly important that the climbing community demonstrates its commitment to the new agreement to help keep Eridge Rocks open and with possible access to further areas at the crag. Check Southern Sandstone Climbs and the BMC RAD for updates.

Recognition 

Recognition should be given to all those involved both in and around this new access agreement. Graham Adcock, Tim Daniells, James Parsons, Bob Moulton, Ben Read, Rob Dyer, Robin Mazinke, Simon Barden, Adrian Paisey, Tim Skinner and Daimon Beail.  

Video

Ensure to watch the fantastic information video which includes additional and hi-lighted information. The video was produced by Jay Eddie  and written and presented by Ben Read. Many thanks to them both! 

Southern Sandstone Open Meeting - 12.06.2022 (Chimera)

The next Southern Sandstone Open Meeting will be an ‘in-person’ meeting held at the Chimera Climbing Wall on Sunday 12th June 2022 at 18:15.

This is an opportunity to air your views in person, contribute ideas and meet fellow climbers who are passionate about Southern Sandstone Climbing. 

There will be further reports about climbing at Eridge and a round-up of all the outcrops.

Chimera is located at:

Chimera Climbing Wall
3 North Farm Road
High Brooms Industrial Estate
Tunbridge Wells
TN2 3DR

Google Map Link

Eridge Rocks Update - May 2022

The owners, Sussex Wildlife Trust, have given permission to apply a limited amount of surface-hardening treatment to holds that were damaged in Summer 2020. 

When this has been completed, it is hoped that the BMC will be in a position to lift the voluntary restriction on climbing at Eridge Rocks this summer. 

The BMC and SWT have reviewed the agreement resulting in some changes to the areas where climbing is permitted and where it is prohibited in line with the changing pattern of where protected ferns, lichens, mosses and liverworts are growing on the rocks. 

SWT has also introduced a No chalk or substitutes policy for all climbs on the site. 

Details will be announced before the voluntary restriction is lifted together giving further information.

Until that time, climbing is still prohibited. 

Your continued support is greatly appreciated!

Harrison's Rocks Bolting Upgrade Work 2022 - Stage 3

Work continued on 03.04.2022 where further bolts were removed and clearance and repair work undertaken. 

The following routes had bolts installed to replace some of those removed on the 27.03.2022. 

Installs on 03.04.2022

1. Birch Tree Crack   - Both Bolts 
2. Senarra                 - Both Bolts
3. Baskerville            - Back Bolt
4. Elementary           - Back Bolt

Please note that routes with single bolts which are taped off will require alternative methods for setting up top ropes. If a setup method is not available then please treat the climb as temporarily closed.  

The BMC is now undertaking further assessments of bolts that may require replacement or relocation, and as such, some further climbs may need alternative methods for setting up if bolts have been removed or only taped single bolts are in place. 

Work to replace some further bolts removed is currently on hold until additional work is undertaken. 

Sossblitz will remain closed. Please avoid utilising other bolts to rig this line. 

Harrison's Rocks Bolting Upgrade Work 2022 - Stage 2

Work continued on 27.03.2022 where further bolts were removed and clearance and repair work undertaken. 

The following routes have had bolts removed and will require alternative methods for setting up top ropes. If a setup method is not available then please treat the climb as temporarily closed. Single bolts for climbs have been taped off to prevent climbers from setting up only from one bolt. 

Removals on 27.03.2022

1. Big Cave Route 1  - Both Bolts
2. Birch Tree Crack   - Both Bolts 
3. Senarra                 - Both Bolts
4. Baskerville            - Back Bolt
5. Elementary           - Back Bolt

This completes the removal of now 17 bolts. In the next few weeks (weather permitting) bolting work will commence of which some areas will be closed when this work is taking place.

Additional repair work is taking place to repair the area of rock around the old back bolt of Sossblitz which collapsed due to an underlying fracture that was uncovered when the bolt was tested and removed. It is believed that water had been getting in under the concrete for many years and cased a cavity under the rock. The climb will be closed until repair work is completed which is being done in stages. 

Harrison's Rocks BMC Workdays 12th & 13th March 2022 - Thank You!

A big thank you to those who came out to give their time and put back into the rocks and the Harrison's Environment. 

Lots of incredible work was done, so thank you!

Harrison's Rocks Bolting Upgrade Work 2022 - Stage 1

There are several bolts that are in the process of being replaced. 

This work is happening in stages and first involves a number of them being removed.

The following routes have had bolts removed and will require alternative methods for setting up top ropes. If a setup method is not available then please treat the climb as temporarily closed. Single bolts for climbs have been taped off to prevent climbers from setting up only from one bolt. 

This work is ongoing and some areas may be closed when further work is being undertaken. 

Removals on 12.03.2022

1. Dark Chimney     - Both Bolts
2. Casement Wall    - Back Bolt
3. Sagittarius           - Back Bolt
4. Stupid Effort        - Back Bolt
5. What Crisis         - Back Bolt
6. Slimfinger Crack - Back Bolt
7. Horizontal Birch  - Back Bolt
8. Sossblitz             - Back Bolt

Harrison's Work Day Saturday 12th and Sunday 13th March 2022 - Volunteers Needed

A new sector has been cut at Harrison's as well as trees that were blown down in the recent storm. The Harrison’s Rocks Management Group (HRMG) are asking for help with the clearance work on Saturday 12th March 2022 and Sunday 13th March 2022.

There will be a nominated event coordinator on each day – Adrian Paisey on Sat the 12th and TBA on Sunday 13th March 2022. Please report to them in the car park prior to the event briefing and also ensure that if you arrive later, you report to them before starting any work.

The plan is to meet in the car park at Harrison’s at 09:30 on each day where there will be a full briefing, explaining what work is to be done, where the work is and giving a full safety briefing. The last part is important and particularly so for those who may join later. If that applies to you, please find the person in charge before starting any work.

The work will consist of clearing the arisings from the tree cutting, moving the trunks to habitat piles or where they are required for revetment work and lining footpaths with the brash.
There may also be other work cutting back Sycamore, Birch and other saplings that have re-grown in areas cut in previous years and any new or replacement revetment work that is required.

Consequently, there is plenty to be done and a good turnout would be very much appreciated.
Parking is £4 a day at Harrison’s and it would help if you could share transport. The BMC will cover reasonable parking costs – please retain your ticket and let the person in charge on the day have them after the day’s work so that we can recover the costs.

If you have a bowsaw, loppers, pruners etc. please bring them along but there is plenty of work to be done that doesn’t require tools.
 
Old clothes and boots, gardening gloves and waterproofs if it’s wet. Please don’t wear your best ‘Arcteryx’ gear! Bring a packed lunch and a drink, please!
 
We will have a first aider on site both days but if you have first aid qualifications, please let the day’s event coordinator know.

Please Avoid all Sandstone Crags Today due to Storm Eunice (Update)

Please avoid all sandstone crags today (Friday 18th February 2022) due to Storm Eunice and the now red weather warning in effect. There is an extremely high risk of falling trees in the area.

Harrison's carpark is closed.

Storm Eunice is causing significant disruption and dangerous conditions in the area due to extremely strong winds.

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Update: Trees down at Harrison’s Rocks. Please avoid the area this weekend (19/20 Feb) . 

The car park is also closed this weekend (19/20 Feb) whilst debris is cleared.