Tuesday 28 May 2019

Harrison's Rocks - Bolting Project 2019 / 2020 - Stage 2

On Sunday 12th May, work continued concerning the Harrison's Rocks Bolting Project. The aim as before is to install new sets of bolts to form top-rope anchors on areas of rock where there is inadequate protection currently in place. Additionally, there is also the need to remove one or two bolts and replace them. 

All bolts, resin and equipment are supplied by the BMC and installed by some trained voluntary members of the BMC Harrison's Rocks Management Group. 

By being a member of the BMC (which all climbers should be in one form or another), you will be contributing to the Harrison's Rocks and Stone Farm climbing environment as a whole, along with many other things the BMC does for climbers. 

Here you can see the new bolts in comparison with the old ones which were removed and replaced. Please note that many of the bolts, which were placed well over 30 years ago, are still going strong, and a small number have been identified for advisory replacement over the next few years. It's also worth highlighting that the old smaller rear bolt as seen above, is only there as a backup bolt.

12 bolts were installed making for six further sets, which have been installed above the following:

1. Greasy Eliminate R / Directors  -  Pig Tail Slabs  -  RF Page 207

2. Big Cave Route 2 / Right Under Your Nose -  The Cave  -  RF Page 253

3. Forget-me-Not  -  Spider Wall  -  RF Page 254

4. Spider Wall  -  Spider Wall  -  RF Page 254

5. Wanderfall / Wander at Leisure  Wanderfall  -  RF Page 260

6. Birch Tree Wall + Variation  -  Birch Tree Wall  -  RF Page 262

The Pig Tail Slabs are now fully bolted and are expected to see more attention due to the ability to protect the routes better.

Bolting will continue in June with some access restrictions in some areas where it is taking place. Please remember that bolts can only be placed by authorised personnel. Please see our bolts page for more information.

 Excerpt from the Southern Sandstone Climbs Rockfax Guide

"There are many bolts on sandstone and all of them have been placed purely as top-rope anchors at the top of crags. There are no bolts actually on routes and they are never used to protect lead climbing.

Bolts on sandstone should not be regarded in the same way as bolts for leading climbing on limestone or other rock types. The softness of the rock means that there are special requirements when placing the bolts and they must not be used for any purpose other than setting up top-ropes. They are not designed for slacklines, zip wires or via ferrata. Excessive force placed on a bolt in the wrong direction may end up with the rock surrounding it failing and exploding in a sandy mess.