Monday 1 July 2019

Harrison's Rocks - Bolting Project 2019 / 2020 - Stage 4

On Sunday 9th June 2019, work continued at Harrison's Rocks regarding bolting. It was supposed to be a shorter work day, but took an unexpected turn regarding additional resin and bolt fixing. 

The area of the unclimbed wall had to be closed and we thank all those at the crag that day for your patience and support whilst we undertook the work. We would also like to thank people who gave us their additional support on the day, your appreciation of the work being done is very much appreciated. 

6 bolts were installed this time (3 sets in total) and 3 bolts removed plus 2 resin fixes.

1. Pullover - Solstice -  The Scoop Area  -  RF Page 264
To add better and easier protection to the climbs here.

2. Solstice -  Unclimbed Wall  -  RF Page 267
To protect the side face and reduce incorrect loading on bolts on the adjacent climb. 

3. Hangover 3 -  Long Layback Area - RF Page 194
This one was originally down for a re-resin and fix but eventually needed a complete removal due to stress fractures detected around the front bolt. Therefore, both bolts needed to be removed and relocated further back. A 120cm/8ft (ish) sling is now needed to protect this climb or alternatively use a Demma rope system

4. Unclimbed Wall  -  Unclimbed Wall -  RF Page 266
This was the removal of the old front bolt, which was no longer suitable for use. It was also filled in with resin to plug the hole.

5. Coffin Corner  Circle Area  -  RF Page 213
The front bolt has now been re-secured.

6. Stupid Effort  -  What Crisis  -  RF Page 204
Front left and rear bolts were now re-secured.

For now, this brings this rather large bolting and clearance project to a close. There are still items on the list, but these will be addressed separately and as part of another project.

In total since April, 45 anchor bolts have been installed, which makes for 22 and a half sets in total. Three bolts re-secured and 5 bolts removed. A full list of work can now be found on our bolts pageAdditional updates will also be found here in the future. 

Please remember that bolts can only be placed by authorised personnel. Please see our bolts page for more information.

 Excerpt from the Southern Sandstone Climbs Rockfax Guide

"There are many bolts on sandstone and all of them have been placed purely as top-rope anchors at the top of crags. There are no bolts actually on routes and they are never used to protect lead climbing.

Bolts on sandstone should not be regarded in the same way as bolts for leading climbing on limestone or other rock types. The softness of the rock means that there are special requirements when placing the bolts and they must not be used for any purpose other than setting up top-ropes. They are not designed for slacklines, zip wires or via ferrata. Excessive force placed on a bolt in the wrong direction may end up with the rock surrounding it failing and exploding in a sandy mess.